Bazari Busy-ness

Woman having lunch at her book stall at Dezerter Bazaar.

The central bazaar in Tbilisi stands at a crossroads. Rumours suggest that parts of the old market may be torn down to make way for a modern mall, a transformation that signals how the era of traditional bazaars and street vendors may be nearing its end.

Bazari Busy-ness is an ode to the tireless work of the vendors; to the intricate mazes of Dezerter Bazaar; to the ripe fruit sold by the roadside on the highways leading out of Tbilisi. It’s a tribute to the small shop owners, and to the diligence and care embedded in these everyday spaces.

The women I meet in the different stalls have created their own small universes and are surrounded by each their specific speciality, being books, flowers, vegetables or giftwrapping. Each one I ask if I can take a picture of them, some are shy, asks: “why me? I am old. I am not pretty anymore”, I assure them that they are indeed very beautiful. Others just nods and poses. Like Paris. After taking the picture of Paris, as I call her, a man walks up to me: “She is not from here”, he tells me and quickly disappears. Why this is important, and why he felt the need to make this statement is still unclear for me. Paris is a central part of the bazaar, but still somehow “she is not from here”.

A woman selling flowers by Marjanishvili Metro.
Dezerter Bazaar buzzing of life.
A dog enjoying the sun at Dezerter Bazaar.
Fruit trucks by the highway.